Hiro finding a line.
If you’ve “liked” Volcanic Rock Gym’s Facebook page, you’ve probably heard of this place. It’s a big pile of boulders right on the ocean that people are starting to explore. There are problems everywhere. Nothing is named or rated yet. The landings are all crazy and you’ll need plenty crash pads and spotters to keep things safe. I’ve got pics of several problems you can do here but there’s much more to be climbed. This place is awesome.
This is the scene. Boulders piled upon boulders.
Here’s Justin Ridgely on the rock with Hiro Watanabe spotting.
Same problem, different angle. The holds are mostly sharp slopers.
Here’s a close up of the rock. Not all of the rock at Sacreds is this sharp though. There’s a nice variety of smooth slopers, crimps, some jugs, and a lot of pockets.
Moving on to look for another line.
If you look in the cracks and caves between the boulders you can find some good stuff.
Justin points out something promising but the rock was wet.
Here’s another problem. Climb straight up the arete. Keep your weight to the left to make your right-hand open-hand holds positive. On the left side you’ll have two-finger pockets. Once you get towards the top, use that pocket you see a couple feet from Dennis’s right hand to help you top out. There’s also a crimp on that crease you see before the pocket.
Another problem. Challenge yourself on this one to sit-start. Hit the slopers with your left hand to get up. You’ll have a nice crimp then a jug to use as you top out.
Same problem. This angle shows the sloper Dennis is using.
Another problem. Sit start with double underclings. Left hand hits a small sloper then bump towards the left into the crack. Right had hits the side of the boulder and then you top out.
Another problem. One that you probably shouldn’t do. Hiro is pointing out a crazy high-ball. There are holds that will take you up this face but the rock towards the top looks brittle.
Dennis decided to climb it and confirmed that the holds a the top are super flaky. He topped it out though. No one took pictures though as all 5 of us were spotting him.
This side of the wall was much better. Do this side instead.
Cave problem. The start is hard. Joe attempts it.
The first move is not easy. I couldn’t even hold the start.
Dennis gives it a go.
And Dennis makes the top out.
- Videos: If you want to get a better idea of how these problems go, check out Joe’s YouTube channel.
So far, he’s got video of 4 problems here at Sacreds climbed by: Dennis, Justin, Matt, DavidChat and Phil.
- Volcanic Rock Gym website and Facebook page. If you’re looking for people to boulder with, there’s no better place to start than here. Joining this rock climbing gym has made my life significantly more fun.